Saturday, May 16, 2009

Lucky Lizards – Selecting an Easily Maintained Lizard for Beginner Reptile Owners


Buying your first lizard should be done with caution. Lizards make great pets, but there’s more to taking care of one than you might imagine. There are lizards that need a great deal of care and a more expensive set up in food and living quarters than other lizards, so choose with care. Know what your options are, so you and your new lizard will both be happy and content.

Most lizards, except the very exotic kind, are not that expensive to purchase. The type of lizard that you buy determines other costs. For example, the Black and White Tegu lizard requires a large area for its house, so it costs more to build or buy the housing for it. When you want to buy your first lizard you’ll need to look at lighting effects for your lizard too. If you’ve got a lot of room, then you’ll be able to accommodate an iguana that will grow up to six feet, but please remember that before you buy, even if you’ve got the room. It takes time, commitment and money to keep a lizard happy and healthy.

A Leopard gecko is a lizard that’s very good to buy if you’re a first time buyer. Leopards don’t require any expensive blue light for their enclosure, only a warming light. Reptiles are cold blooded so they all need a little warmth, especially in the cold winter months. Most owners of lizards will hang a light bulb above the enclosure to keep it warm. Don’t place it in their cage, or it will end up burning their reptilian skin. A standard 100-watt light bulb works nice for the animal. This lizard needs at least 50% humidity too, so keep a check on how humid you keep their cage. If you don’t they will loose body moisture and die.

Lizards that are active at night don’t like too much light, but they need ultra violet light so they can convert it into the necessary vitamins to make strong bones. Without the vitamin they’ll get scurvy and the joints will swell, eventually the lizards will die because they become paralyzed. Also, when you buy a lizard make sure that its feeding requirements are understood clearly. Feeding each type of reptile, either the Leopard or the bearded dragon, for a beginner can seem a bit confusing. For example, the Leopard only eats insects as their main diet, and the Bearded eats both plants and bugs, for theirs. Each lizard requires supplement foods to be added to their diets. You’ll need to feed a mixture of foods to both, like berries bananas, mice, and crickets that are loaded with nutrients. The bugs that you give them will need to be fed with the same supplements before feeding them to the lizards.

Drinking is another issue with a beginner reptile owner. Lizard can’t drink from a water bottle, so you’ll need to provide clean water everyday in a bowl that’s preferably ceramic. They won’t tip it over as easily, and the ceramic is not dangerous to their digestive system if it flakes a little. Young bearded dragons are known to be stubborn on drinking or just playful, and will knock their bowl over, but you can solve that problem. Lightly mist the inside of the cage area, and they’ll get all of the water they need. Also, don’t be surprised if your lizard goes through stages of not wanting to eat or drink as much in the winter months. It is just a part of the way they digest, but never force-feed them. This can cause stomach problems.

There are a lot of different lizards that you can choose from as a new lizard owner. Some others are the Green Anole, Madagascar, and the thick tailed gecko. A good way to decide what type you want is talk with a local veterinarian that works with exotic pets of the reptilian variety. They can advise you and work with you on getting your first lizard, and caring for it after you’ve brought it home. Remember, lizards are a lot of fun, but they’re more challenging to care for because they belong to the reptile family. Each lizard is as different as the next lizard, and by knowing how to care for him or her, you’ll have a fascinating time learning more about him or her.

Friday, May 15, 2009

Your Exotic Pet Bird – Typical Maintenance Tips for Food and Shelter

If you are interested in an exotic pet bird, there are a few things to consider before you settle on a specific breed. You will want to consider how much time you will be able to spend with your bird, how much noise you can tolerate, and whether of not you have enough space. The exotic bird you choose will and should depend on what your life style is as well as your personality type. You will also want to consider how much you can afford on food, shelter, toys, and Vet costs. The larger and more exotic the bird you choose the more money you can look forward to spending. Once you have decided a particular bird is right for you, it is now time to provide your pet with good food and shelter.

When it comes to food you will want to start young. Younger birds are much less picky and not so set in their ways, making them more willing to try new things. Be sure to let the bird know that what you have given him or her is food by placing it in a recognized dish. A great way to get your bird to try a new food is to mix a few sunflower seeds, cheerios, and/or raisins in with the meal. While searching for his or her beloved treat they will ultimately try the food and like it. The best time to introduce new food to your pet bird is first thing in the morning. It is instinctual for birds to forage for food in the morning so this may make it easier on you and your bird. If you are giving your pet bird vegetables you may have to do some trial and error. Some birds prefer raw, cooked, warm, cooled, and even pureed veggies. You will have to try them all to see which ones your bird like best.

When it comes to offering food to your bird, it is important to be creative. Try clipping veggies and fruits to the side of the cage in or around a play area. Weave greens through the bars of the cage for fun nibbling. Many bird owners have found this very useful for birds that will not touch fruits and veggies in their dishes. Chucks of corn on the cob can also be a favorite. Many birds enjoy not only the corn but gnawing on the cob as well. Many birds love brightly colored foods, as they seem more appealing. Try mixing yellow, orange, and red fruits and veggies in bite sizes together in a dish. When offering your exotic bird greens, it is best to wash them first and then hang the wet leaves in the cage. The water left on the leafy veggies is very attractive and can make your bird more prone to testing. You can also take a nibble of the food you are offering. Many times if your bird sees you eating a particular food he or she will want it now too. Feeding other people in the home and making a big fuss over the food will be all your bird needs to want some. You bird could also enjoy fresh seed just sprouted, as well. These are an excellent source of nutrients and can make the transition from seeds to leaves easier as well.



When it comes to shelter, you will first have to take the size of your bird into consideration. Each bird species has very specific shelter guidelines that need to be followed. There are several basics to providing your pet bird with a comfortable, safe, and convenient home. You will always want to go bigger when it comes to cage size. The requirements are the bare minimum and many birds do not thrive well in small confined spaces. Make sure the bars are in regulation for your specific bird. You do not want them too large and have your bird escape but too small can cause your bird to get his or her head stuck and cause serious harm. When it comes to cage shape never use cylindrical cages, they are very small and do not provide enough room. They can also cause your bird to feel unprotected and make them anxious. You will want to be sure that the cage you select is long and high enough for your bird to fly and play in. Birds need to have room to exercise so taller and longer is best.

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Choosing Chinchillas – The Basics on Owning One as a Pet

A chinchilla is a small burrowing rodent that originates from South America. These small creatures are taken into many American homes today and treated as household pets. You need to know the basics about owning one of these small exotic creatures.

One of the most important things to remember about caring for non-domestic animals is that their behavior can be quite unpredictable. Therefore, if you are going to purchase a small household animal such as the chinchilla, you are advised to invest your money in one bred in captivity rather than one was captured from the wild.

Not only is the behavior of wild animals unpredictable, but they can also spread unknown (and many known) disease agents which could be harmful, especially to children and other household pets. Therefore, choose carefully when chinchilla shopping. The future of your entire household depends upon it. You need to know what you are getting yourself into when you commit to buying one of these animals.

Another aspect of owning a chinchilla involves assessing the cost of taking care of one once you bring it home. You need to make sure you can afford to feed your pet the proper chinchilla diet. The good news is, however, that chinchillas are not nearly as picky of eaters as ferrets. The most important aspect of feeding a chinchilla is to make sure that you do not give it any seeds. They do not take well to seeds.

If you want to make absolutely sure that your chinchilla is fed right and receives the right nutrients, you can feed your animal chinchilla pellets-and NOT rabbit or gerbil pellets. Food pellets created for chinchilla contain the amount of prescribed nutrients that is right for them. The best pellets created for this type of animal contain two parts calcium to one part phosphorus, with a low protein count and high roughage count. You can further check with experts to see what they would recommend. If you follow these above guidelines your animal will be most likely properly fed, however.

If you want to calculate the cost of feeding your new pet, you may want to make sure you consult a specialist who deals with exotic animals, or you can research that cost online. Pet stores that deal with chinchillas would have this kind of information as well. Talking to a chinchilla dealer about that animal's eating patterns will help you figure out if you can afford to feed your pet.

Another important factor you may need to know about your chinchilla is how to properly groom and care for your pet. For example, you may need to know how to deal with blotches of fur that may come out when you comb its hair. You have no need to be alarmed if this happens. It will grow back if it does. If you want to prevent from the hair falling out you will want to be careful not to pull too hard when coming.

Another time when you have to be aware of fur falling out is when you are handling your pet chinchilla. Sometimes they will lose fur when someone pulls on their fur too hard. If you do not want your animal to lose hair you can grab it by the base of the tail and the shoulder. This will decrease the chance of your pet losing too much fur. You will want to teach others how to handle your pet as well, so they are prepared in case the animal wants to get away.

The process of a chinchilla losing fur is a natural defense mechanism, which they use to protect themselves. If they are not alarmed by those who are holding them, they will be more likely to not lose any fur. No matter how careful you or your visitors are, however, it could still happen regardless. Either way, just do the best you cannot to startle your pet, and to teach others how to handle it properly. That is all you can do, and allow the pet to warm up to you and those around you.

For more information on what you need to know if you own or plan to own a chinchilla you can read more articles such as this one. You can also count on the advice of experienced pet owners and pet professionals to help you out. You can find these resources very quickly by searching on the Internet.

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

A Day in the Life of the Oriental Fire Bellied Toad

Are you looking for a unique, exotic pet that will turn heads and raise curiosity? If so, you may want to invest in one or more oriental fire-bellied toads. Furthermore, you may want to learn more about what happens in a typical day of a toad’s life, as well how to build for it the correct habitat when you bring one home.

The oriental fire-bellied toad, which is a type of frog, is one that is most noted for the bright orange on its underside, as well as the bright green and black coloration on its back. The bright red coloring on this type of toad’s back warns predators to watch out. They mostly feed on insects, just like other varieties of frogs will do, but also feed on some worms and small fish. They do not have a long tongue like other frogs do so they use their mouth to grab food and stuff it into their mouth with forelegs.

All toads including the fired-bellied variety are amphibians. They are called this because they live in the water and also can survive on dry land. The fire-bellied toad is different than a fish, which needs to stay in the water at all times otherwise it will die. You can set up a toad such as the one described in this article as a pet in your home.

If you want to take one home as a pet it is recommended that you put no more than 2 or 3 of them in a 10-gallon tank. One or two toads per tank are preferred. Furthermore, you should not mix the toads with other species otherwise some toxicity could result. The aquarium that you set up for your toad should consist of both water and dry “land”.

Flat rocks raised above water level can provide as the land on which the toad will prop itself. You will need to know that most toads such as the fire-bellied toad are freshwater creatures. Therefore, you will want to provide a fair amount of freshwater vegetation such as damp moss or cattail, which you can add to your toad’s aquarium. You can find the appropriate frog plant life at your local pet shop.

Most frogs, including the fire-bellied toad, prefer warmer temperatures above 75 degrees. However, since they are used to adjusting to the cold it may not be necessary to provide a heater for it. Your tank should have a filter added to it, however, and it should be cleaned out frequently.

The water that you put in your fire-bellied toad’s tank should be de-chlorinated and stale tap water that has sit out for approximately 24 hours, or it should be bottled water. Since toads produce a lot of waste, partial water changes should be done as often as possible as well.

The tank that you provide for your pet toad should also include plenty of ventilation, and should be covered securely. A screen lid on the top of the tank would be one of your best options, along with a filter, as mentioned earlier. These animals need to be able to breathe properly.

Small animal specialists can further assist you with any care or food needs if you let them know more about your animal. They live between 4 and 15 years, and the length of their life depends upon a variety of factors, which include the following:

Climate

Frequency of Aquarium Water Change

Amount of Chlorine in Water

The type of Water Used

Animal Diet and Eating Patterns

Effectiveness of Man-Made Aquarium Habitat (the right amount of plants, water, and land added)

Availability of Care when Animal is Sick

The more you understand about your fire-bellied toad the better. You want to give your pet the best care possible. Besides consulting animal specialists, you can also read more articles such as this. Not only that, but you can research more information about the fire-bellied toad and other animals very quickly by using the Internet.

Keep in mind that knowledge regarding animal care is being improved daily, and the information presented to you is subject to change. For your benefit, you will want to keep updated as often as possible. You can do this by reading animal news and magazine articles, and even books, about all varieties of animals to bring home as pets-including the fire-bellied toad.

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Train Your Way To An Obedient Pet Ferret

Like many other types of pets, the ferret must be trained if you want to be able to have a good relationship with him or her. One of the first habits that require attention is the ferret’s inclination to nip. Ferrets that have been bred as pets should not be in any way vicious or bite hard. The ferret bite or nip is more of a play fighting, which is natural. Babies have no idea that they are being hurtful when they nip at you. Your ferret will need to be disciplined for nipping to train him or her to appropriate play. Like any other pet one must be willing to teach their ferret what behaviors are appropriate and which ones are not.

Many times it is a matter of the owner figuring out what is triggering the ferret to bite. Many normal calm ferrets that hear a very load noise, such as those from squeaky toys, can react with biting. Somehow the noise scares the ferret and he or she reacts with an extreme behavior. The best course of action would be to get rid of the toy and the behavior will more than likely disappear. Another reason ferrets may bite is due to pain or fear. Be sure to know why your ferret is biting before disciplining him or her. If you adopted your ferret it is important to know if he or she was abused. For ferrets in pain it is best to get them to the Vet, where they can be thoroughly examined and treated. For those ferrets that have been abused, try different ways of training and have patience. You ferret friend has to re-learn to trust humans and that will take time, love, and encouragement.

The best way to train a ferret, especially those who have been abused, is with positive reinforcement. You will use treats and praise to train you ferret to do what you desire. This works much better than punishment does and makes the ferret more cooperative. If you ferret does need some form of punishment a time out works wonders. Ferrets like to be free and roam about, confining your ferret for a few minutes to a cage or carrier directly after the behavior occurs. Make sure to hold fast when your ferrets nips, setting him or her down will only show them that they will get what they want when they bite.

When your ferret nips you, it is best not to use nose flicking or physical discipline, especially if there is a past of abuse. You do not want your ferret associating you as bad. There are plenty of alternatives that work just as well or even better and have great outcomes. Use a signal that your ferret knows when he bites you too hard, such as a high-pitched yip or hey. This noise reminds them of a kit and will make them stop. If that tactic does not work then use a stern, deep voice. This will let your ferret know you are the boss and that is not acceptable. Stop playtime and gently put you ferret down. He will get bored once he knows you are refusing to play, and stop the behavior. Many times if you have more than one ferret the time out tactic works wonders. You can place the misbehaving ferret in his or her cage while the other is playing freely about.

Another great way to keep your ferret from wanting to nip at you is to cover your hands with Bitter Apple or No Chew Spray. This will leave you ferret with a very nasty taste in his or her mouth and make them think twice before doing it again. To get the ferret off of your hand when he or she does bite, cover his or her nostrils gently with your fingers. This should make him or her release. There are plenty of non-aggressive ways to train your ferret how to behave if you just have the patience to try. You will find that with thorough obedience training, your ferret will be a loving and playful companion for all family members to enjoy. A happy ferret is a well-trained ferret. Your companion wants nothing more than to please and play with you.

Monday, May 11, 2009

Basic Lizard Maintenance from Supplies to Care

Before you run out and buy supplies for a lizard, check out all of the facts about caring for one. Don’t buy supplies until you’ve decided on the lizard for you, and bought everything that you know your lizard will need. Lizards have certain requirements from housing to foods, and knowing how to care for one is a life and death situation for your lizard. Take the time now so you and your new lizard won’t suffer because you haven’t checked out all of the facts about them. Read on to learn some things you’ll need before the baby comes to your house.

Its home is the first consideration that you’ll need to look at, and then purchase. You can either buy a lizard cage or build one, but it needs to be sturdy, so your lizards can’t escape. An aquarium works nicely for lizards, make sure that it’s big enough for them because they won’t stay babies forever. Next, consider its heating source for the new reptile in your life. Lizards are members of the reptile family so they need to have an artificial heating source, either from a light bulb, or a heating unit under their cage. Whatever type of heating source you use make sure that it won’t burn the delicate skin. Place the light bulb above their cage and the pad is properly adjusted, and well maintained. If your lizard isn’t nocturnal you’ll have to purchase special UV lighting for their cage too.

Feeding lizards is a little more complicated than just putting out some lizard food. Some of them eat plants and vertebrate or invertebrate foods like bugs and mice as a staple of their main diet, while others eat less. For example, the bearded dragon eats all three foods, while the leopard will eat very little mice. For most lizards you’ll have to add supplements of Vitamin D to their diets by purchasing pellets at the pet store, and giving them a good mixture of vegetables, fruits, and leafy greens for their dietary needs. All lizards love bugs like the cricket, but you’ll need to make sure that they are ‘gut loaded’. Gut loading insects are ones that have been fed with supplements right before they are fed to your lizard.

Hiding places inside the cage will help your lizard grow too. Lizards in the wild will take refuge from predators, and they love to rest in crevices of wood or leaves, so be sure to put them in the cage. A flowerpot made of terracotta is used too for a hiding space, but don’t place one in a cage that has been painted, its toxic to lizards. When building or purchasing one include perches too, so if they need extra warmth they can get to the heat. The bottom of their cage should have loose gravel that is not dusty at all. Dust causes respiratory problems for them, and many die from inhaling it. Besides, some lizards don’t have eyelids, and the dust from certain gravels will irritate and infect their eyes. Their dish of water should be heavy enough not to tip over, and most people find that a ceramic dish works perfectly.

Caring for a lizard involves more than just lights and food. It might surprise you to find out that lizards are like puppies, and need their toenails clipped too. Invest in a good pair of clippers, and clip them down when they become sharp. If you don’t feel that you can do it, drop your lizard off at the local pet shop that cares for exotic animals, it’s not that expensive to do. Because they’re reptiles a lizard will shed it skin many times during the year. If a small rock is placed inside its cage they can rub it off naturally. If however you find it’s having trouble, then soak your lizard in water, but be careful when handling it. The new skin is very tender, and bleeding is likely if you don’t. Caring for a lizard means that you’ll need to pay close attention to its needs, more so than you might have thought.

Finally, it’s true that lizards are a lot of work, but if you really want to own one do your research first, don’t purchase a lizard, and then ask questions later. Reptiles are one of nature’s truly exotic and fragile creatures. Many times they won’t survive if you don’t think and act appropriately, so find out all about the type of lizard that you want, and then invest for its care.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Anything and Everything You Wanted to Know about the Sugar Glider’s Sex Life

Okay. So maybe you really didn’t want to hear about your pet’s sex life. However, it will be necessary for you to learn how the sugar glider mates if you are going to take care of it. You will want to research this aspect of owning a sugar glider before you invest in one. Some of the most basic facts about the sugar gliders sex life include the following:

Since sugar gliders live most of their infancy in their mothers’ pouches, they are able to breed quite easily. That period of time is approximately 2.3 to 3 months.

They attached to the mother’s nipple until they no longer need to be. If you remove them too early from the mother they will not be able to reattach themselves. This is important for you to remember during the mating and breeding process.

They breed after about 8 months, and they mate year round. When they mate they usually produce two offspring at a time, but have been known to produce at least 4 babies a year. In order for this to happen the newly weaned animals need to be removed right away from the mother.

Sugar glider females reach sexual maturity at between 8-12 months and males reach maturity at about 12-15 months.

It is suggested to leave the mother along during the birthing process. However, sometimes the males remain present during it. Then, just after the babies are born, the male steps in and helps feed them.

Infant sugar gliders are feed mostly semi-solid foods such as low-fat fruit yogurts and baby food until about three months old (along with the mother’s milk).

The process of the separation of the baby from the mother glider causes some minor stress for a few days. Female sugar gliders are usually aggressive after female young when they reach three months old and older. The males are often ignored.

If you want to breed sugar gliders and sell them, you will need a license. To obtain information about obtaining this license you can call the U.S. Department of Agriculture and ask them for more information, or you can write them. They also have a website that you can visit. Furthermore, if you want to know how to promote your business in the event you obtain a license to sell these animals you can find contact the USDA regarding that as well.

If you want to prevent your sugar gliders from producing, it will be necessary to have them spayed or neutered. However, it is not recommended to have the females spayed unless it is for medical reasons. The males, on the other hand, are very easy to neuter and done in some cases as a birth control method. The other option is to just purchase only one sex of sugar gliders if your only intention of owning one is to enjoy it as a pet.

The neutering process should only be done under the direction and care of a licensed veterinarian, with the animal under anesthetics. Usually this procedure is only performed on sugar gliders if the owner does not want to breed. If you own a sugar glider and are considering letting them reproduce you will not want to get them neutered. Most likely it would be very difficult to get this procedure reversed.

Now that you know some facts about the sugar glider’s sex life you will be prepared in the event you have a female who is pregnant, even if not planned. If you suspect that your pet is pregnant, you will want to have it checked out by a vet. In addition, you will also want to make sure your female pet receives proper nutrition so that it carries healthy babies and produces strong offspring.

After the new glider babies are weaned and are on solid foods you can begin to carry them around in a bonding pouch. You can even carry them around while they are sleeping. It is important to have as much contact with these animals as possible because they will need to be used to it, because they will be handled quite a bit in their new home.

If you want to learn more about the sexual activity of sugar gliders as pets, and you want to learn more about breeding them you can read more articles like this one. Furthermore, you can ask questions of any vet who deals with small exotic animals such as the Australia and Guinea native-the sugar glider.

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Training and Care Strategies for your Pet Pot-bellied Pig

Caring for and training most pets is quite a bit of work, especially if it is not your typical dog or cat. For instance, those who decide to own a pot-bellied pig have quite a bit of work cut out for them. You can wean your pet as a baby and it can live a healthy long life if you take care of it properly, and feed it right.

When your pig is a baby you need to ask for starter chow at a feed store. More specifically you need to ask for the first food that pigs ever eat after they are born. Usually pigs will eat this food until it is several months old. Every pig is different so it is hard to say exactly how long it should be on starter food, but you may figure at least 6 or 7 months. Starter chow contains approximately 15 to 18% protein.

As the pigs grow older, they will begin to eat different types of chow that contains higher amounts of protein. For example, you can find a hog feed that contains ground corn and supplements, and is made of 36% protein. This higher protein count is best for adult pot-bellied pigs. The chow that pigs eat is full of other nutrients that they need as well, such as vitamins and minerals.

Pigs can eat certain human foods as well, but it is recommended that you be careful which foods to feed your pig and which ones not to fit it. One food that pigs can eat is leafy vegetables such as romaine lettuce or other dark green lettuce leaves or cut-up pieces of fresh carrots. You can feed your pig fruits and other sweet foods as well, but in moderation.

If you want to feed your pig foods besides regular pig chow you can but do so in moderation. Furthermore, you need to be careful exactly what you would feed your animal. For example, pot-bellied pigs should NOT eat chocolate. Chocolate is very harmful to these animals, and possibly could cause death. In fact, you should try not to feed your pig candy of any kind. Be careful what you feed your pig.

Some foods that are safe to feed your pig in limited amounts include the following:

Corn, Fruits, Potatoes, Yams, and Sweet Potatoes: Your pig enjoys these and they have some nutritional benefit. However, you need to be aware that these foods are starchy and contain quite a few calories.

Tomatoes: Pigs like these but you need to be careful because they are highly acidic.

Spinach: You can feed your pigs this vegetable because it helps clean out the animal’s digestive system. However, spinach is also high in sodium, and should be only given if the pig has clean water supply.

Certain Snack Foods: Cereals such as Cheerios, as well as unsalted and unbuttered air popped popcorn, bite sized shredded wheat squares, and other similar snacks acceptable to feed your pig. Be careful not to feed your pet snacks that are too high in fat and salt, especially fried potato chips or similar foods.

The other major concern about a pig’s diet is to make sure that your pig always has clean and fresh water. It is recommended that you change the pig’s water supply at least twice a day. Also, beware of the possibility that a pig could contract salt poisoning from water deprivation, which is another reason to supply your animal with fresh water as often as possible. It is best to never limit their supply of water as well.

Pigs drink quite a bit of water because they do not sweat. Also, since pigs do not sweat at all except for a little around their nose, they roll around in the mud to keep cool. You can also provide for them a plastic kid’s pool with water added to it so they can jump around in it. Of course, you will want to learn how to clean your pet pig afterwards if you keep it in the house.

If you need to clean your pig after a fun roll in the mud you will want to consider the following:

Avoid putting anything liquid into the pig’s ear canal. This is harmful to them. Instead, just stick your finger in its ear as far as it will go (or perhaps large-headed dry cotton swab). To make ear cleaning easier you can add a small drop of mineral oil to your finger. When you pull your finger out of your ear, the mineral oil causes the dirt to stick to your finger as it comes off of the pig’s ear. You can also use a wrung-out cloth to clean the outer surface of the ear.

You can clean your pig off by spraying his entire body gently with a hose or you can take out the swimming pool that you purchased for your pig to play in and coax it into there. Once the pig has been cleaned with water you will want to take it in the house before it runs back into the mud.

After cleaning, it is best to dry your pig off right away to prevent from it getting dirty again right away.

If you want to make sure your pig stays healthy and lives to its maximum life expectancy (approximately 15 years old) you will want to give it regular checkups. It is recommended that you make sure you can find a vet who is trained to deal with pot-bellied pigs before you invest in one. The pig will need a series of immunization shots and will also need to be spayed and neutered as soon as possible.

Friday, May 8, 2009

Things You Should Know about Keeping your Boa Healthy

Like all pets, it is imperative that you ensure that you give your Boa Constrictor the best possible chance at a healthy life. A Boa Constrictor is in no way any different from any other living being and has just as much right to be cared for with appreciation as any other pets. Snakes are very different from cats or dogs in that they need an entirely different level of care. It is not enough to merely toss a dead rat in their living environment and they will just survive, reptiles need care and continual up keeping just like any other animal. With dietary issues, housing, mites, skin care, and temperatures to keep in mind the raising of a beautiful Boa Constrictor will surely keep you very busy indeed.

While many pets do actually take up much of your time with attending to them, Boas really do not require as much in regards to maintenance and care. This is not to say that they can just merely be left alone and you never have to worry about their safety. Boas are a unique level of work when it comes to pets and their raising.

First and foremost, the most important thing to consider when keeping a snake of this species would have to be the housing or environment that you plan on keeping it in. while some animals like rabbits or chinchillas can get by with a cage as a dwelling it is not really recommended for snakes. A snake can easily slip through many very tiny spaces and become quite the escape artist, if you do not make provision for this you will surely find out the hard way. The best fashion of home for a snake, especially a large constrictor would be a glass or acrylic aquarium. This will allow you to view the snake at will and ensure that the pet is not finding its own measure of jail break while you are not home to monitor it.

Feeding is a very important issue as well, when it comes to Boa Constrictors. They do not eat your everyday housecat or family dog. Generally, people only feed their Boas once every week or bi-weekly. It actually takes a long time for the snake to digest the meal it has taken in, for this reason they are more prone to eat then lounge for a good period of time. It would be most helpful if you placed a heat lamp or hot rock which can be purchased anywhere reptiles are sold, into the tank. This will help the snake with their food digestion and help to prevent illness of the snake.

It is always best to provide your Boa with the best possible food from a reputable supplier when it comes to reptile food or snake food. Never feed your snake a wild caught mouse or rat, you do not know if there are any diseases present within the animal. This is a bad idea to feed your snake a wild caught rat or mouse anyways as the animal will be more prone to attack the snake in defense, and again the animal could indeed be a carrier of a virus or disease that will in turn kill your snake.

Periodic checks of the snakes skin is always a good idea, as many times snakes will be susceptible to mites or parasites on their skin. There are medications available from your local reptile specialist or pet stores around you that sell reptile supplies. When the snake is about to shed its skin, it is always best to leave the snake be. It is never a good idea to handle a snake when it is shedding, as it is very vulnerable and can easily startle. This is the most likely time when a snake would be more apt to strike at you, regardless of its nature or passive personality. When the snake is shedding it forms a film over its eyes and it is difficult for the snake to see what is around it. Take precautions should you have to move the snake while it is shedding to avoid startling the snake, and from it biting you by using slow and precise movements and by wearing thick gloves if at all possible.

Thursday, May 7, 2009

Boa Constrictor Basics

When it comes to pets, many people these days are looking for a change. Often times people will choose a dog or cat as their family pet, there are people however that looks for something a little different. Enter the Boa Constrictor; this lovely snake belonging to the first vertebrate class of snakes is native to Central and South America. It can reach lengths of approximately 13 feet and is grouped in the same class as its cousins the Anaconda and the Python.

This relatively calm and non-poisonous snake makes its home in the wild in holes in the ground, or high in the trees. When considering this fact it is advisable for you to develop some for of natural semblance to their native habitat. This will keep your Boa Constrictor happy for years to come. When choosing the right pet for your home, lifespan always seems to be a major issue. No one wants to get close to his or her pet only to have it pass away quickly. This is why Boa Constrictors make such a good pet, as they have general life spans of approximately 25-30 years.

In the wild, the Boa Constrictor feasts on such prey as birds, agoutis, and rats. There are now many places where you can find dead or live food for your Boa, as many pet stores in your area make provision for such pet owners. Many people are not completely comfortable feeding Boas live rats or mice, even less than appealing is the thought of feeding it a rabbit. For this very reason many people will shy away from the notion of owning one of these beautiful snakes as a pet. Should you be interested in getting a Boa Constrictor as a pet, you can get food for the Boa that is already dead from a reptile specialist. You can buy several rats for example and keep them in a bag in the freezer, when you need to feed you simply take the food out a day prior and let it thaw out before feeding it to the snake.

It is under no circumstances a wise move for you to try and feed your snake a frozen rat or other meal, as it could make the snake very sick or even kill it.

Boa Constrictors kill their prey in the wild by biting the prey first then coiling their body around it and suffocating the prey. This is what is known as constriction, and this species of snake is a pro at what it does. Whether in the wild or in captivity the Boa will use this method to feed, and it actually is quite the sight to see. Should you be someone with a rather week stomach perhaps it is best that you just drop the meal into the snake environment and let it do its thing on its own. Sometimes however, when the snake is very young you may need to force feed it by rubbing the snake’s nose on the food source itself. Again, should you not be willing to do so, you may want to reconsider the choice in pets that you are about to make. While this species is protected under the Appendices to the convention on international trade of endangered species, they are still actively bread for purpose of domestic pet living. You can find these lovely snakes anywhere reptiles are sold, and they have become a very popular choice among snake enthusiasts over the last 15 years.

Boa Constrictor will grow to the environment provided for them, meaning if you offer them a very large cage or tank in your home chances are the snake will indeed grow relatively large. When keeping Boa Constrictors as pets, it is always a very important thing to mind any other small pets that you may have traversing around your home. This is because the snake can and will make a meal of the other pet should they be left unattended for any length of time. This is due to the instinctual nature of the snake, and their natural drive to hunt prey. If you have a small cat or dog, it would be most recommended that you pay close attention to what they do and how close they actually get to the snake at any given time.

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Is it Legal to Own a Pet Ferret?


Many people have questions when it comes to whether or not it is legal to own ferrets as pets in their area. Knowing these laws is very important to ferret owners. You will want to know where you are allowed to live if you plan to keep your ferrets with you if you relocate.

For those considering adoption this is important too. Many people adopt their ferrets from out of region rescuer locations that require shipping or a trip. It is best to know before you come home if your furry friend is allowed to come with you. It is most likely that you will be able to easily own a ferret without any issues. But it is illegal for people to own ferrets as pets in some locations.

There are some frequently asked questions about ferret laws and how these laws affect you as an owner or prospective owner. Most of these so-called ferret laws are in place due to misinformation and ignorance.

They claim that ferrets are wild animals and should not be considered house pets. This is very untrue. Ferrets have been living domestically for thousands of years. Many governments will claim there are no rabies shots for ferrets. The truth is that not a single human has ever contracted rabies from a ferret and the IMRAB-3 has been approved as a rabies vaccine for ferrets since 1991. Another reason it may be illegal to have a ferret, as a pet in your area is that ferrets were deemed vicious and dangerous biters. According to the Centers for Disease Control ferrets are much less likely, approximately a thousand times less, to bite compared to a dog. No one has banned dogs as pets. Many also claim that a feral ferret population could spell disaster if they grew too large. The fact that there has never been a feral ferret population in the United States or Canada shows that these animals live and survive under the direct care of their owners. The only ferret that is in the wild today is the black-footed ferret and it is endangered.

As of the year 2000, ferrets are legal in all states except for California and Hawaii. Although the other 48 states have declared themselves ferret friendly, many local city or county governments can ban ferrets in that particular city or county. There are many places that actually do this, so any prospective ferret owners will need to make sure they check their local laws before bringing a ferret home. Cities such as New York City and Dallas are just two of the major cities that have banned ferrets as pets in their city limits. You can also expect that if you live on any military base, you will not be permitted to own a ferret as well. It is always wise to get a copy of your city’s animal control ordinance. Just because it is legal to sell ferrets in your area does not mean it is legal to own one. Many larger cities will sell ferrets in their pet stores but may also have a ban on them for pet ownership. So it would be people who come from other areas who could purchase and have these animals as pets, not residents where the stores are located.

Many people either do not know it is illegal to own a ferret in their area or ignore the laws completely. Once you try to seek a vet for your ferret you will quickly find out whether or not they are legal. If you find out that it is illegal to have your ferret as a pet and need to get your animal to the vet, it is best to speak with other ferret owners, the local ferret club, or a ferret shelter in your area. They will be able to help you locate a vet that treats ferrets outside your local area. If you are having an emergency, it is best to take your ferret to a vet in person, many vets will not admit to treating an illegal ferret over the phone, but will see your pet if you walk in. It is easiest to just call the next town over from where you reside to get a good ferret-treating vet. Most vets are most concerned with an animal’s health than the laws, so as long as you are private you will probably get vet care in your town or city.

Top Reasons Why Iguanas Are Not A Good Choice As An Exotic Pet


Iguanas are probable the number one fad pet on the market today as far as lizards is concerned. Many pet stores are now carrying iguanas at low prices and telling the world what wonderful and easy pets they are. Well, this is not the case. Iguanas do not always behave well and can be very difficult to keep. You iguana will require a very specific diet that must be adhered to at all time as well as very strict housing requirements. Any old cage just will not do, no matter what the pet store sales person tell you. They just want to sell you something. Iguanas can grow extremely large if cared for right. Many die due to lack of proper care. If you are thinking about an iguana as a pet you will really need to make sure you know this reptile well and what its needs are prior to purchasing.

Aggression

Iguanas are not the loving lazy lizards that the pet store people tell you about. Iguanas are very aggressive and will bit you and anyone else that sticks their hands near their cages. You will have to truly know how to handle this reptile from the very beginning if you plan to try and tame this aggressive nature. You would not want a large reptile with a very bad attitude and temper getting out of its cage and roaming your home. This can be especially dangerous if you have young children or other domestic pets in your home. The iguana will have no problem or fear in attacking either and can cause some serious harm. Many owners are completely not prepared for how large and strong these creatures are.

Many owners will claim how docile or quite their iguana is when they first bring it home. This gives an owner false hope that this is how it will be and taming will be easy. Usually the iguana is just nervous and trying to get its bearings on the new environment. This can really freak out the new owner when after a couple days their iguana is striking at him or her and acting very aggressive. This aggression can cause the owner to handle their pet less and further this behavior even more. Both female and male iguanas are equally aggressive, so thinking you can cut down on the aggression factor by purchasing a female is incorrect. Once the iguana reaches sexual maturity it will become even more aggressive and territorial. This can be compounding to the aggression it already has from it previous experiences such as abuse, neglect, and shipping.

Disease

It is a well-known fact that reptiles, including iguanas can carry disease that can be harmful to humans. Many carry Salmonella and could cause much harm if proper hygiene is not adhered to. If there are young children or pregnant women in the home this could become an even larger danger. Also those who have immune system compromise, such as the elderly, infants, or those with immunodeficiency are at very high risk and if they get Salmonella from your iguana, they can die. Hand washing is a great way to prevent the spread of disease causing bacterium, but many people do not wash their hands well enough. This is especially true of children. Not to mention if your iguana gets out or you let it out of its cage, it will them spread these bacteria all over your home and surfaces. You may not even know what surfaces they have touched and which ones they have not.

Damage

Iguanas come fully equipped with their own weapons and they are not afraid to use them. You use extreme caution when handling any iguana. Iguanas have very sharp teeth and frequently bite. Unlike other pets, this habit cannot be broken and will continue forever. This bite is not only painful; it can lead to mass infection. Your iguana has his or her own special whip as well, a tail. The iguana’s tail has very sharp dorsal spines and is extremely powerful. This can now only hurt but cut open flesh. Your iguana does not care that you are the one who feeds him, only that he does not want you to ouch him or come near him. You can also expect many scratches from their sharp claws as well. These scrapes are littered with bacteria and need to be cleaned appropriately to avoid infections.

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Owning a Pet Skunk

Perhaps one of the most controversial topics of pet owning is whether or not skunks should be considered pets or whether they should be la a nuisance that should be left in the wild. With that point aside, many people actually successfully own and raise skunks.

If you are one person who finds skunks fascinating, you can heed advice about skunk care which will benefit you, your family, and your skunk. Those tips are listed as follows:

Have the scent glands (a.k.a. skunk spray ducts) of your skunk surgically removed: In order for your pet skunk to live in your house, it will be necessary to have their scent glands-otherwise known as “skunk spray ducts” surgically removed. This will prevent you and your children from smelling like an acid tank for days or even weeks on end. This will be necessary, also so you don’t embarrass yourselves or your children when going out in public.

Put locks on doors and cabinets: If you don’t want all your food to disappear and you don’t want to wake up to a disaster every morning, you need to keep locks on all your small cupboards, cabinets, and other openings that have doors.

Keep houseplants and garbage out of reach: Your skunk will naturally want to gravitate to your plants, because they are outdoor creatures. Not only that, but they have a habit of wanting to scavenge food out of vessels such as trashcans. You need to find a hiding place for your garbage and a high shelf for your plants for when your pet skunk runs free around the house.

Feed your skunk the right foods: Cat and dog foods have been proven in recent years to be harmful to skunks. Therefore, you need to prepare your animal foods that it will actually be able to digest properly. The rule of thumb today is for 90 percent of your pet skunk’s diet to consist of vegetables, with a few fruits thrown in for an occasional snack.

Beware that skunks bite: Use extreme caution when deciding to purchase a skunk to live in your home. It is not recommended to have them around small children because they have fangs similar to ferrets and can bite. However, if you have children you can either leave the skunk in the cage when your children are around, or watch the skunk like a hawk if running loose.

Never hit your skunk: If your skunk needs discipline, they will learn to understand the different tones of your voice. It is not recommended to hit your skunk because your skunk will not be likely to forget it. The reason why is they are like elephants, who are also known not to forget anything.

Play with your skunk: Skunks are some of the most playful creatures. That is one reason why people would take the chance owning them even though it is a lot of work to raise them. One example of play with your skunk involves talking to it using a hand puppet or small stuffed animal. You can also tease the skunk by chasing it with the handheld playing object. When you play this way with your skunk you will want to protect your hands with gloves, because skunks have fangs and sometimes will use them.

Give your skunk chew toys: If you don’t want your skunk to eat up your furniture, shoes, and other household items you will want to train your skunk to chew toys instead. Ideal chew toys for skunks include ping-pong balls, tennis balls, brown-paper bags, cardboard boxes, old socks, and stuffed animals.

Know what to do if a skunk escapes: You will most likely have to go looking for your skunk if it escapes from your house, or put up wanted signs in your neighborhood. The skunk will not return on its own. It can be difficult to locate a missing skunk, but it can be done. The best thing is to just watch the animal carefully when it roams free.

Additional care tips: When you purchase your skunk, you will not only need to have the skunk glands removed, but you will also be required to have it checked and immunized. This will help prevent the further spread of any known or unknown disease agents spread by these creatures. It will also help reduce the chance of them contracting worms.

For more great tips on how to care for skunks or other small household animals you can read other articles such as this one. You can also access to information from professionals regarding small animal care when you search online. Keep in mind that the method of animal care is subject to change pending new research.

Monday, May 4, 2009

How to Ensure the Health of your Pet Snake


If you’re thinking about owning a snake for a pet, then you’ll need to read on about how to care for them. Snakes as pets are growing in popularity, but a lot of people don’t give enough consideration on the thought of owning one. Exotics are pets that don’t fit the normal definition of a pet, and any type of snake certainly doesn’t fit the typical pet of a dog, cat or fish, so learn about the basics of snake responsibility, and some medical issues of snakes.

The wild side applies to snakes, and there’s nothing wrong with owning one, but know what you’re getting into. There are poisonous, constrictor, and non-poisonous snakes. Everyone should seriously think about bringing a poisonous snake into his or her home. If you’ve got small children or other pets in your home, it’s not a good idea. Children are curious, and one accident can mean their life. Small pets like gerbils and rabbits can be killed if the snake escapes. Snakes can fit through holes and wiggle loose out of your hands in a snap; so think long and hard about buying one that’s poisonous. Constrictor snakes can be dangerous too because they can over power an adult that’s average in size very quickly. Experts say that to handle a constrictor, you’ll need experience, and depending on how big the snake is, two people should handle it. If your snake grows or is over five feet, get an experienced person to help you move it.

Good starter snakes are ones like the ball python. It’s a constrictor snake, but it’s one of the more docile ones. The supplies that you’ll need to get your snake started off right in your home isn’t all that much, but be prepared to pay in the first year, if everything goes right, around $1,000.00. A baby ball python costs on average about $75.00, and an average aquarium that will be large enough about $200.00. A heavy lock down top will run on average $50.00. Don’t skimp on a quality top, or you’ll find your snake gone. Next, purchase a good supply of 100-watt light bulbs, too. Your snake will need the warmth continually because it’s a reptile and cold blooded. You’ll probably see an increase in your electric bill of at least another $150.00 per year to keep it running.

When you buy your snake, pick up a quality water bowl, and a bowl for the snake to lounge and curl up in. Depending on the types and where you buy the bowls the price will vary, plan on spending at least another $25.00 for them a box make of wood that will fit its cage is a part of the package of owning a snake. Snakes need their rest, and will go into the box to cool off, or to sleep. Before you take your snake home, a quick stop at the vet’s office is a good idea because snakes can have parasites under their scales that cause infection, and there are other medical problems too. They can have mouth rot, blood poisoning, eye infections and even respiratory infections. Older snakes can develop benign or malignant tumors.

Snakes are creatures that need care just like any other, but people just don’t seem to consider that fact. Most think that if their snake doesn’t work out they can just go and give it to a zoo. Most zoos will not take any snake at all from the general public. They know the medical issues, and a lot of zoos are over crowded as it is. Also, they restock their own when they need to, and even if you want to give it to them for free, they won’t usually take it. Sadly, snakes are often abandoned, or they’re killed by their owners when they get too much to take care of. Food is another issue with owning a snake, and this is one factor that makes people give up on their snake. Snakes can be hard to feed; most like to kill their own, and will reject frozen dead bait. Boxes of frozen mice will run about $200.00 per year, and that’s if it’s a small to medium sized snake.

Owning a snake can be a fascinating adventure, but it’s a decision that needs to be made with extreme care. Remember, the snake that you take home is one of nature’s most complex creatures.

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Getting your Snake to Eat Pre-Killed Victims


For many snake owners feeding your pet often can be a task. Most pet snakes can eat up to once a week or more depending on the species and size. It is very important to know your particular snakes dietary needs prior to purchasing. You will want to be sure not only to feed your snake an appropriate diet, but also feed it as much as is required. You do not want to over feed either. A over weight snake is more likely to bite or die from not having enough time to digest. If you are feeding your snake what you should, animals, then the bones and teeth can take some extra time to digest. If you are planning to be a good snake owner, it is important for you to be able to feed your snake other animals, not matter how cute and fuzzy they are.

There is a humane way to go about preparing a meal for your snake, pre-killed frozen/thawed food. Snakes will eat dead prey without hesitation. It is a myth that only live prey will work. There are several reasons why pre-killed food is best. It makes the natural process more humane for the animal about ready to be eaten as well as protects your snake from injury. A rodent or rabbit thrown into a cage with a snake is not just going to wait to be eaten. These animals do have claws and teeth and will attack your snake, which can cost you in vet bills.

To begin the pre-killed food process, you would take your food source and kill it for your snake in a very painless manner. You can easily put them to sleep by using CO2 gas from your car. Just place the animal in a paper bag and put the bag at the tail pipe. With in a few minutes the animal has passed painlessly. You will now want to store your snake food in a freezer for a minimum of 30 days to kill any parasites and bacteria. Once it is mealtime for your snake you will just let the food thaw in the refrigerator. When the food is warm inject it with vitamins for a healthy meal. Some snakes that have not been fed pre-killed food prior may have to adjust. To make the food seem alive you may have to “wiggle” it around till your snake strikes at it. Many times you will have to try different sizes and colors of pre-killed foods. Even though snakes only see in shades of gray, sometimes the color provokes a better response.

Try different times such as feeding your snake at night in his hide box to see if this is preferred. It may take a while but out will figure out where and when your snake prefers to eat. Do not be discouraged or give up if a few meals go to waist. This is only a minor loss of time and money. After your snake has figured out this is dinner he will most likely strike the animals and strangle it as if it were alive by instinct. Be careful to use a long safe object when moving prey around to not be injured. You never want to hold the food in your hands. You can get an inexpensive pair of snake tongs at any pet store that sells exotic animals.

Pre-killed food is much safer for your snake for more than just injury reasons. A dead animal is not going to fight for his life by any means. Not to mention that it is frozen to eliminate diseases. It is very important to remove all food that has not been eaten within 12 hours to avoid more disease. For those who do not want to kill the food themselves there are plenty of online stores you can get frozen pre-killed dinners from. You can even save a lot of money by buying larger quantities. This is much cheaper than buying live animals. Some pet stores are even selling mousicles and ratsicles now for snake owners. This is an easy and convenient way to feed your snake as recommended and humanely. Most snake owners will agree that snakes will have no problem with pre-killed food once they get the taste of it.

Saturday, May 2, 2009

Hedgehog Handling


Should you be interested in a new pet, yet you are unsure as to what you want why not consider a small African hedgehog. These cute and friendly little critters will easily win you over with their friendly personality and charm. These small bundles of quill can make for an excellent pet, there are just like all other pets however many things to consider when looking at a hedgehog for domestic purposes.

You will need to make accommodation for this animal and its natural traits such as climbing and its nocturnal nature. The best way to keep a hedgehog would be to place it in a minimum of a 20-gallon glass or plastic tank. It should be rather tall as hedgehogs like to climb, and you do not want this little critter escaping and you loose them. By placing a hedgehog in a 20 gallon tank you will be able to watch them and they will feel more comfortable in their surroundings without them becoming stressed out or scared.

Considering the fact that hedgehogs are more often than not very shy, it would not hurt to place some sort of house within the 20-gallon tank. Old flowerpots or cardboard boxes make great hedgehog homes, and will keep the hedgehog happy for the span of its life. Hedgehogs are very active in the evening, and love to run and play. For this reason it is not a bad idea to place a small hedgehog approved running wheel in the tank to keep them busy at night. A hedgehog approved running wheel is not like the standard hamster wheel as there are no grooves or rungs for the hedgehog to get their feet caught in. hedgehogs are also avid swimmers, should you elect to have you hedgehog take a dip ever now and then, it would not be out of the question for you to put a small area that is filled with fresh water in the tank. This will make them very pleased and they will be happy little critters if you do.

When considering a hedgehog as a pet, it is always best to keep one hog per dwelling. They are very shy animals and realistically are not all that social towards other animals including other hedgehogs. The practice for placing more than one hedgehog in a dwelling is more for mating purposes only. Once the mating is complete the male and female will be separated again. This is not to say that it is impossible for you to house more than one hedgehog in a tank, should you wish to try it would be best to place a pair that are of the same sex in the tank, as the transition will be less stressful to all involved. It is never recommended that you place a male and a female in the tank on a permanent basis, chances are one or both of the hedgehogs will die through conflict.

When mating and pregnancy is concerned, the male has nothing to do with the pups, and the pups would only be in danger of being eaten should you keep the male in the same tank. Unfortunately same goes for the female, she will if stressed eat her young so it is advisable for you to move the pups to a new location once they are weaned off of the mother.

This popular choice of pet in North America is a very shy creature by nature; it may take some time for the little hog to warm up to its owner. This will include being held, where this is clearly a patience issue that both parties will have to exhibit in order for they’re to be trusted. A little time and some gentle handling will have your hedgehog happy and spirited within a relatively short period of time. If you rush the issue of handling you could easily set yourself back several months, or the hedgehog could not trust you at all. Take your time and do it right, this way you will see much in the way of appreciation from your new little friend and they will make it a point to show you appreciation through playfulness and active living.

Friday, May 1, 2009

Pet African Clawed Frog

When it comes to exotic pets, few can argue the interest that people have these days for odd pets such as the African Clawed Frog.

This interesting little from is one of at least 14 different species of (Xenopus) or strange foot frogs. These great little frogs can be found throughout much of Africa in the wild, as well as in many laboratories for research purposes. The African Clawed Frog is considered by many to be a very social and intelligent creature. While there really is not a lot known about these elusive yet funny frogs more and more people today are finding a way to introduce them into their homes as pets. Within the wild habitat that they live in, they spend practically 100% of their time in water. Should you elect to keep an African Clawed Frog at home as a pet, there are a few things you will need to keep in mind.

First and foremost, one of the most important aspects of African Clawed Frogs, is that they are originally considered a wild frog. What this means is that should you decide not to keep it anymore it realistically should be handed over to a pet store or local zoo. By releasing this frog into the wild in your area can cause many problems both for the pet and the natural eco system of the region you live in. if one of these African Clawed Frogs is released to the wild in say North America, it could easily deplete the native frogs of the region rather quickly as they like to dine off of smaller frog species in the wild. This type of frog should be seriously considered prior to becoming a household pet. This will ensure the safety of the frog as well as the natural habitat that other frogs live in. African Clawed Frogs are best suited to live within an aquarium setting if you decide that this great frog is the right choice for you.

When placing African Clawed Frogs in an environment such as an aquarium in your home, you will want to make sure that you are not housing these frogs with any small fish. If for whatever reason you elect to do so, you will run the risk of the fish becoming a meal for the frog as they eat fish in their natural habitat. Placing the African Clawed Frog in an aquarium with fish that are larger will really not pose a problem and the fish and the frog will co-habitat. African Clawed frogs can indeed be rather aggressive towards smaller housemates, so safe practices are always suggested if you intend on keeping them with other species.

Considering the fact that African Clawed Frogs can get rather large, try to consider this fact when choosing a home for the frog or frogs. A good-sized aquarium would be a long 55-gallon tank. This is a good-sized tank, and will allow you to have a considerable amount of water for the frog to be comfortable. Another very important issue with the African Clawed Frog is their diet.

If you decide on one of these frogs the best diet for the frog will consist of:
  • Krill
  • Reptomin sticks
  • Wax worms
  • Bloodworms
  • Shrimp pellets
  • Mealworms
It is very possible for the African Clawed Frog to become friendly over time, and will likely allow you to hand feed them. This will give the frog a sense of trust, and give you the peace of mind that you are forging a bond with your pet. A few very important reminders for new African Clawed Frog owners, first they will shed their skin quite a bit it would be a good idea to have a good filtration system in your tank.

This will ensure that there is no bacteria buildup or diseases forming in your tank. Second you will want to make sure that you have all holes covered around the top of the tank, as African Clawed Frogs are great jumpers and excellent escape artists. This can be a very fun pet endeavor should you decide to give it a try, this is very different from the norm like a cat or dog. The change and interesting new facets of African Clawed Frog keeping will have you entertained for years to come.

Thursday, April 30, 2009

Just Say No To Big Cats For A Pet


If you are one of those people considering a big cat as your next pet purchase, you may want to think again. There is much to consider when it comes to purchasing a large cat. Besides the fact that it is a wild animal that will never be truly domesticated, there are some tremendous costs involved. If you think it is just the cost of the cat itself that will empty your wallet you have not done enough research.

Not to mention that most large cats die within the first two years, up to 98%. You will have to cover all the expense of your large cat’s diet, which can be extremely costly when your cat is eating 15 pounds of fresh meat per day. If you try to skimp on nutrition, the vet bills will be even more costly than they would be normally.

You can expect to get a large cat at several price ranges. Some cats can go for as little as $500 and as high as $15,000. The more rare and large cat you get, the more you can expect to pay. Even if you are willing to pay that price for that sweet furry baby, he or she will not stay small for long. Within a year a large, full sized cat that will be sexually mature will replace your fuzzy baby. Even if you decide to spay or neuter your big cat, both sexes will spray continuously on everything and everything that they assume belongs to them, including you! This is how they mark what belongs to them. This large tabby is not going to go in a giant litter box; it is a wild animal, not a domestic house cat.

The most difficult task is to find a vet who is even willing to take care of your large wild cat. This will be a chore, as most vets do not deal with exotic pets at all, let alone a giant wild cat. There is much in the way of liability that their staff will be placed in as well as their regular domestic clients. You can expect if you do find a vet willing, to have to purchase a stainless steel squeeze cage. This cage should hold your big cat at it’s full grown weight. A tiger can weigh as much as 800 pounds or more and average a length of 12 feet long from nose to tail tip. A squeeze cage for an animal this size can cost as much as $2000. Not to mention the forklift rental for $300 you will need to transfer the animal. Once on the forklift, what are you going to put your large cat in to transfer him or her to the vet? Your large cat will not fit into your car. You will need a large van that is in perfect running condition to transfer your cat. You will not want to be stranded on the side of a road with an angry wild cat. This is not something you can borrow either, emergencies happen and you must be prepared.

Another thing to think about when owning large cats is where are they going to live. Most states require you have a minimum of 5 acres of land to build an appropriate cage for your large cat. When you consider that an acre of land can cost any where between $10,000 - $75,000 plus, this could be a costly venture. Plus many states also require an eight foot fence be erected around the property, there goes another $8,000 - $20,000. Your fence cannot be used as part of your cage, so that too is a separate expense ranging from $2500 - $8000 plus. Your cage must have a roof to prevent escape as well. These numbers represent your start up costs and do not include the first year of your big cat’s life. You will also need to be able to provide your big cat with food and vitamin supplements as well as flea and parasite treatments. A large cat is not going to just let you treat them so you will want to be fast and inventive when applying. This does include all the governmental costs you be continuously spending out on as well or leisure items for the cats. Choosing a large cat as a pet can be a costly endeavor. If not done right, you could lose not only all your money, but also your life.

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Getting to Know your Pot-bellied Pig


If you are thinking of investing in a pot-bellied pig to bring home as a pet, you will need to know what to expect. Knowing what you are getting yourself into when you adopt a pet pig includes a variety of aspects.

One part of getting to know your pig is to get to know its behavior. For example, even though a pig lives to be approximately 15 years old, its maturity level stays relatively the same. An adult pig has the mentality of a three-year-old child for pretty much its entire life. If you think you can handle this immaturity for over 15 years, then you may be ready to purchase one as a pet.

You also will want to know that your pig may start out small, but it often reaches a weight of over 100 pounds. Not only that, but you will need to have the patience to train your pig if you want to allow it to stay in your house. Even if you do allow your pig in the house, the best place to keep your pet pig would be on a farm or huge property that provides enough land area.

If you have enough land or farm area for your pig to run around in, you can set up a place where it can roll in the mud or take a dip in a small pool. This will help keep your pig cool during the summertime. Furthermore, it is a great way to let your pig burn off some energy, and to do what it is naturally prone to do-get dirty.

Many pigs, especially if they have grown up to be an only child, do not require a companion. However, providing for them a companion cannot hurt. They are somewhat social animals, but they are also comfortable being alone. If you are concerned about your pig being lonely then you can purchase another pig so it has some company while you are gone.

If you own pigs you will need to be aware that they have a tendency to try to raid household cupboards and refrigerators, so you will need to think of a way to lock these for your protection. They can also be quite aggressive and they can disrupt your landscaping in some cases.

The good news is, however, that these creatures are very easily and readily trained. You can encourage good behavior out of your pet pig by setting boundaries and saying “no” when you mean it. Furthermore, you can use positive reinforcement to praise your pig when your pig behaves according to the rules you have set for your home. It is best not to use physical punishment, because they will not respond well to it. They could possibly rebel even further.

The other bit of happy news about pigs is that they can be adorable and fun-loving creatures. Furthermore, they are more intelligent than people might think. Furthermore, you can find pigs that have been brought into the world by breeders who care about animals, and who do not exploit them.

If you want to invest in a pig you also will need to make sure you have enough money financially to take it to the doctor at least once or twice a year for checkups. It will also need to be spayed or neutered as soon as possible and will need the proper immunization shots. In fact, it may be wise to make sure you can find an animal doctor who lives close enough to you that can care for the animal.

If you want to be successful in raising a pig you need to study as much as you can about how to raise them. You also need to know what kind of diet they need and how to clean them after a mud bath if you intend on letting it back in your house. You will also need to keep up with new trends of animal care, which your vet can help you do.

The more you understand about how to take care of your pet pot-bellied big the more you will be able to provide for its needs. For more information about how to raise one of these animals you can read more articles just like this one or you can contact a professional who knows how to handle them.

Tuesday, April 28, 2009

FAQ’s of Hedgehog Care


When it comes to pets these days, many people look for something that will best compliment their personality. Some people opt for cats, while others look at getting a family dog, then there are some that just want to stray from the norm.

These people are the ones who look to be original and have a pet that no one else has. This is where the African hedgehog comes into the picture. These cute prickly little creatures are anything but normal when it comes to pets, yet more and more people today are looking into these wonderful little animals to introduce into their homes.

Like all pets there is a certain level of care that must be applied to the raising of hedgehogs, while it may not be litter boxes or leases there is still a regime that must be followed to keep your hedgehog happy and healthy.

There are many questions that are asked when someone is looking at buying and caring for hedgehogs. There really is no right or wrong question to ask when you are interested in a hedgehog as a pet. Considering the fact that hedgehogs have become a very popular pet over the last decade we will explore some of the most asked questions about these great little pets.

What are the laws in regards to hedgehogs and keeping them as pets?

Like all exotic animals, there may be laws governing their keeping in your area. It would be best to find out from your local authorities prior to purchase. This will keep you out of trouble should you not be allowed to own one and you get caught.

With breeding always an issue, when is it best to breed hedgehogs should you choose too?

African hedgehogs generally are ready to reproduce between 3-4 months, it would be best however to allow them to become at least 6 months of age before considering it. The average gestational period of the hedgehog is 34-37 days, and the litter will usually be somewhere in the 1-7 pup range. More often than not however, you will see a litter of 4 pups.

Should a new hedgehog mother be left alone after she gives birth?

A new hedgehog mother should definitely be left alone after she has given birth to her pups. Hedgehogs are naturally shy and skittish animals to begin with, should you attempt to handle your hedgehog shortly after she has given birth more than likely she will become stressed and she may eat her young. It is always best to leave her be until the pups are weaned from her and they can be moved into a separate environment.

What kind of housing should be appropriate for hedgehogs?

One thing that must be remembered about hedgehogs is that they are great climbers and swimmers. You will need a home that is smooth and high walled should you want to keep your hedgehog within its confines. Generally people will use a 20-gallon aquarium with a mesh lid. Placing an old plant pot or small cardboard box in the tank will give them the privacy that they need, as they are very shy.

What type of bedding should be used in a hedgehog home?

You will want to avoid any cedar or pine shavings for the bedding of a hedgehog, as the oils in the wood will introduce repertory tract infections as well as trouble with their feet and skin. It is always best to use shredded newspaper or paper pellets in the hedgehog home.

What temperature should the hedgehogs be held in?

The most ideal temperature to house hedgehogs would be between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Should you go lower than 75 there is a chance that the hedgehog will go into hibernation. If you go above the 85-degree mark you will risk the hedgehog and could put them in heat stress. They could also become very sluggish and will not have very much energy.



What types of food should they eat?

It is possible for your hedgehog to eat small amounts of chopped fruits and vegetables, yet they will also eat bugs. They should not be given bugs that you find around your home; they should ideally be bugs like mealworms from your local pet store.

Monday, April 27, 2009

Fun Facts About Your Pet Ferret

There are lots of great things about ferrets. These are charming little sweeties that are very playful. Many people first get a glimpse of a ferret through a friend or a pet store. They can be almost irresistible to not take home. For many people, ferrets make extremely rewarding pets. There are many things to consider before just taking your wonderful ferret home with you. Depending on your life style, a ferret may not be the right pet for you, no matter how bad you want one or more. It is important to discover all the wonderful ferret facts prior to making your final decision. There is much in the way of responsibility when it come to ferret raising. Each ferret has his or her own specific needs, feelings, and personality.

Ferrets are magnificently social and need to be played with quite frequently. They strive for interaction and crave attention. Ferrets may be small, but they are not “hand pets” that are happy in the confines of a cage, no matter how large. They will want to come out and play with their owners and snoop all around the home. Ferrets require more out of cage time than they do inside. So be prepared to watch you sweet ferret explore the house with vigor and find things you forgot you even owned. For ferret lovers this is extremely amusing and entertaining. If you cannot provide the constant play time and interaction that your ferret friend needs, it is important to get him or her a companion. Ferrets enjoy each other and will play with each other often.

Ferrets are amazingly smart creatures, which can be very dangerous. They will get into things that once could never dream of. Ferrets have a special ability to get into what they are not supposed to and out of what they should be able to. They are little guys and can quickly dodge being seen by following along walls or hiding under furniture. Your ferret may even sneak past you when you open the door for a quick second. One must be very cautious with a loose ferret around the house in order to keep him or her safe. Everyone in the home should be trained on keep a watchful eye out for his or her smart ferret companions. It is also a good idea to ferret-proof your home. This will have to include some very ingenious maneuvers. Ferrets have very flexible bones to go with their wit. They can get into spaces that defy all rationality, so ferret proofing can be very tricky. Not to mention they are avid climbers and will manage to get into something you think is out of reach if so desired. With their smart nature you will find your ferret will drag other objects into position to make climbing to the desired location easier. You can also expect your ferret to explore any cabinet without a latch as well; they can open them with ease.

Ferrets can be litter trained. This is wonderful news for many free roaming ferret owners. Although they may not use it every single time, for the most part if trained properly they will. Ferrets metabolize food quickly and eliminate often, so having many litter boxes at your ferret’s disposal will encourage relief in an appropriate location. It is also a wise idea to have newspapers scattered through frequently traveled ferret areas. Your ferret will have at least one accident outside the litter box per day, so newspapers help provide a secondary place to relieve should the need arise.

Although there are so many fun things about ferrets that can make them great pets and companions, it takes time and consideration when deciding if they are for you. You do not want to buy a ferret on impulse to find out you cannot handle the responsibility and have to abandon him or her at a shelter. Make sure that you are informed about your ferret and know what to expect before bringing him or her into your home. It is far easier to make an error when getting a ferret than with other domestic animals because finding appropriate information can be harder. Always be sue to find out everything about ferret raising prior to purchasing so you can be sure that a ferret is compatible with your life style.

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Food Facts and Care Tips for Sugar Gliders

Taking care of a sugar glider takes quite a bit of patience and dedication. You need to know how to properly care for this small animal, which is native to Australia and Guinea. Proper care of this exotic pet includes knowing what types of food this creature will eat and how to properly house it.

About 30 percent of a sugar glider’s overall food intake includes vegetables. Some sources suggest a little more than 30 percent while other sources suggest less. The point is that sugar gliders need healthy foods in their diet, and veggies contain one main source of nutrients that they need. Likewise, 25 to 50 percent of what nutrients a glider needs come from meat and the remaining 15 percent comes from breads and cereals.

Overall, the food that is fed to these animals should contain as low of fat as possible, with as little amount of sugar as possible. Of course, cutting these animals off from sweats will be a challenge since they naturally have a taste for it. However they will feel full and satisfied if you give them a proper diet. You can read more information about the exact diet that a sugar glider requires if you read more articles and search for more information online.

In addition to feeding your pet properly, you need to house it properly as well. They do not do well in cages that are less than 3 feet high. Therefore, even though they sell them in pet stores in some cases, you will have to use your better judgment and either find a larger cage or make one. If you choose to make a cage, you are better off using unexposed metal that is not galvanized.

Also, you will want to use coated metal to make the walls of the cage, because metal that is not vinyl or powder treated will irritate your pet. If you want to make your cage even more homelike for your sugar glider you will want to add tree branches or other climbing gear so they can enjoy their time in the cage.

The best type of materials to use for making climbing devices is non-toxic wooden structures and tree branches of different varieties. Plastics and other materials that give off harmful fumes are not recommended for your pet. You will also want to use a pillow or other small material to make a bed for your animal so it can sleep at night. In addition, you may want to provide for your animal a friend, such as another sugar glider, since they are social animals. In fact, the more the merrier for them, so you may want to invest in a few of them so they can hang out in a pack.

To further keep your sugar glider occupied, you will want to add some small toys to its cage. Examples of good toys to give your pet include swings, rings, ladders, and mirrors. All toys that you provide for your glider should be free of loose ends or fabric that they could possibly swallow. You can also add an exercise wheel that contains no cross bars or spaces in which the animal’s tale can get caught. Your glider will love running around in the wheel, and could possibly do so for hours.

One more fact about gliders that you should know is that they get bored fast. Therefore, you may need to rotate the types of toys that you include in the cage in order to keep their interest. You can also take them out and hold them. Usually they will be sleeping when you hold them if you do so during the day. You can also play with them if you are up when they are up.

Important things to remember about cleaning a glider’s cage, particularly a male sugar glider’s cage, is that you need to make sure you do not clean it too often. Otherwise, your male pet may increase his male territory marking, which leaves even more of a stench. If you cannot stand the stench of the male’s cage you may need to spray it with a baking soda and water mixture and then rinse/wipe it off. You will not have to clean the entire cage every single day.

If you are contemplating the purchase of a sugar glider the above tips can help you. If you have any further questions regarding these or other aspects of owning a sugar glider as a pet you will want to contact professionals trained to deal with them. You can get most of your questioned answered researching online.

Friday, April 24, 2009

Guinea Pig – Why these are Great Pets

Guinea pigs are cute, there’s no escaping that fact. If you want to get a couple of guinea pigs as pets, then you’ve made a good decision. They make great pets, especially if you’ve got young children in your household. Find out why a guinea pig is the best type of rodent pet you can buy, and a few other very interesting guinea pig facts.

A guinea pig pal is a good animal pal for everyone in the family. Children love them! An animal pet pal of this sort will live a long time, as compared to others in the rodent family. The guinea pig will live on average about eight to ten years, if you take very good care of their dietary needs. Some guinea pigs will live over ten years, and their long life gives children a chance to really bond with their animals. Plus, you don’t have to concern yourself with the sadness of younger children when they die after a few years; broken hearts are hard for even adults to take. Mature guinea pigs will grow to ten inches long, and weight close to four pounds.

The guinea pig family comes in a lot of different colors, from tan to white with brown circles on them. Their cute black noses and silky hair make them feel comfortable to hold, and plain adorable to look at. You’ll love the fact too that guinea pigs won’t bite unless under extreme stress. It’s not hard to train them if you want, but their natural curiosity will lead them to play on most toys that you place into their cage. You can find fun and sturdy guinea pig toys at your local pet shop, and they will use them a lot because guinea pigs will play even at night. Your children will be able to enjoy them after they get home from school, or watch them play at bedtime. They’re adaptable to your schedule when they’re used to it.

One drawback about owning a guinea pig is that you’ll have to buy two of them because they’re very social animals. They’ll become depressed if there’s not another one around to play with, or cuddle up against. If you don’t want any more, make sure to buy two females to live together, males usually don’t work well because they can be aggressive with each other. Cages are another drawback because guinea pigs need a larger than average one because of their size. Usually, two feet per guinea pig is all you’ll need per square foot. Make sure your cage is large enough because you don’t want a depressed guinea on your hands. One nice thing about the animal is that it they love their home, and won’t try to get out as much as other rodents. Also, they don’t have to have as much exercise as others either.

Feeding a guinea pig is a little more difficult than other pets from the rodent family, like rats. You’ll need to buy specialized pellets from a pet or feed store that has lots of vitamin C, and make sure it’s fresh because it can become stale and the necessary vitamin is degraded. The reason you have to supplement their diet is because like humans, the guinea can’t make its own vitamin C, they just aren’t born with the enzyme to do it. You can add a little extra supplement and make the guinea pig very happy, with fresh kitchen scraps of vegetables and small amounts of hay, too. If you don’t feed your little guinea pig their needed foods and supplements they will die, usually within 3 weeks after they symptoms appear of diarrhea and a runny nose. Scurvy will set in too and they will not walk around a lot due to inflamed joints.

Guinea pigs are great pets, and taking care of their nutritional needs is a little more work, but there are so many benefits it’s hard not to dote on them. Spend a little time researching all you can about the wonderful animal, and shop around for a pair. Take the children along and let them pick out a couple; they’ll love it when you say they can get two! Before you do though have their home in place, and all of your foods planned out for them. You want to start out right with a happy and snuggly pair of guinea pigs that are a lot of fun and love.

Hamsters and Gerbils – What's the Difference

A hamster is a hamster, but not necessarily a funny one, but still a cute one to look at. Gerbils and hamsters are both members of the rodent family, but they’re very different in personality, but a lot alike in needs. If you are not sure which one you would like to have then read on a little more, and learn about the personalities and care of hamsters and gerbils.

Socially gerbils and hamsters are two very different creatures. If you like to buy only one animal at a time, then you’ll want to look at the gerbil. A gerbil is content to either live by itself, or if introduced when pups they can live with other gerbils. Don’t be fooled by the gerbil’s intelligence because they will not accept another pup, or even the same pup back into its cage, even if it’s only been a few days since its brother or sister left. Hamsters on the other hand, want to be left alone and will fight with other hamsters, so if you want more than one you’ll need to buy a separate cage. Hamsters are smaller than gerbils on average, but not significantly though. Typical gerbils range in size from the tip of the nose to the end of its tail to eight inches, and hamsters are about seven inches long. The sizes of their cages are about the same, too, of 12x24 inches wide with a foot of height.

Gerbils have been reported to live a year or two longer, and some can live up to six years. Hamsters live about three years. During their lifetime you’ll find that gerbils love to play a lot, while hamsters will have periods of inactivity. Children love animals that really play and interact with them a lot. Another great thing about gerbils is that they’ll adapt to your schedule, and that’s good for kids. Also, your children will be able to pop in their rooms most anytime, and a gerbil will be up and about. Temperament is another thing that encourages people to buy a gerbil. They’re much easier to tame, and overall compared to other members of the rodent family, they’re docile and people friendly. Of course both the hamster and gerbil have to be tamed to get used to being handled. A hamster will bite if they are startled when awoken from a dead sleep, but the gerbil is not as skittish, and has to be provoked to bite, but it will bite if extremely frightened.

Hamsters just like most of its rodent cousins will urinate frequently. In their bedding it will become soggy from a high ammonia smell. It will need to be changed often, at least once every two weeks. The benefit of a gerbil is that because they originated from the deserts, they don’t urinate as often, and their bedding can be changed about once every two weeks. You’ll need to keep clean fresh water out in a non-toxic ceramic bow, or bottle on the side of their cage, but it won’t have to be filled up as much because they don’t drink as often as the hamster. Both the hamsters and gerbils dietary needs are about the same. A good way to know what they need is to talk with a veterinarian that works with exotic animals; they can tell you the best diet for either the hamster or gerbil.

Physically both species are prone to injuries because of neglect, or not enough knowledge about their bodies. One drawback to owning a gerbil is that its tail can be damaged very easily. A gerbil will bite if hurt, so know how to handle them. Don’t ever pick up a gerbil by its tail! The skin can dislodge from the base of its tail, and pull off exposing bone. Some gerbils have died, and others have to be sent to the vet for the tail to be amputated. Hamster have problems too because people leave them unattended and they fall to their death. The eyesight on a hamster is not good at all, and that’s part of the reason they will snap out and bite, even if putting a hand into their cage.

Finally, it might sound like the hamster has gotten a bad rap, but its important to know what type of animal you want, especially if you’ve children in the home. Its not that the hammy hamster is bad, their just different, and they might be more appropriate for older children.